Our Hearts Beat Together

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A couple of years ago we sent out a YouTube video of the song "Stand by me"  from "Playing for Change". The message is as valid today as it was in 2009, perhaps even more so.

Experiencing our world and making new friends wherever we go is our passion and our mission is to help you enjoy the same joy.

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Our friends at Micato expressed our truth in their holiday wish to us and we happily pass it on to you: Wherever we are in the world or in life...our hearts beat together.

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May your actions touch those around you with love and kindness and may peace embrace our souls...

Once again, enjoy the video of "Stand By Me":

A Mulligan for the Misguided

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Meet Hassan, a well-groomed, kind young man who was our guide for two days in Marrakech. On our day trip to the High Atlas Mountains, Joel Zack, CEO of heritage Tours Private Travel, joined us so we had both Joel and Hassan. Poor Hassan had to cut his teeth on guiding a group of travel advisors AND he had "da Boss" along, too! Geez! 

Guiding a group is a learned skill and guiding a group of travel advisors on an educational tour could be compared to trying to herd a swarm of bees. We want the "honey", the essence of our destination, in quick, concise bits. We ask questions, lots of questions about culture, history, current events, best places to see or avoid and we are not an orderly group. Blink and you'll miss the advisor who just had to duck into the shop to bargain for "that to die for" pashmina. Drone on and half the group will be through the museum waiting for you to catch up. No, guiding travel professionals as your first group experience is trial by fire! Add having your employer tag along to really make a guy sweat, figuratively and literally. Hassan did okay, actually more than okay. He could have been a little more informative, a trait we were confident he'd mature into.

Next day paired us with Hassan sans Joel. We knew he'd be more relaxed, but that wasn't the case. Somehow we skipped the sightseeing and headed straight to the Medina for some serious shopping. We were told we'd see the snake charmers and people expecting to be paid to have their picture taken. Didn't happen! Instead, we followed Hassan, whose walking pace qualified him for an Olympic event. Our stroll through the souks was like watching a movie in fast-forward. We did spend a significant amount of time at one shop (fact-all guides in Morocco have relationships with certain shopkeepers-get used to it!). Understand when you are buying things in the Medina, you are buying because you like it not because it is old, antique, extremely rare or valuable-none of those descriptors may hold true.

Michael and I tried to buy a few things at "the shop-the best shop-you can trust this place" but we failed to agree on price. Leaving the shop, we continued at breakneck speed, the souks appearing through peripheral vision, a kaleidoscope of color. Darting down James Bond style alleyways, we found our way to Riad Joya,  our lunch destination, gem of calm and a wonderful place to stay right in the center of the Medina. 

Our luncheon was delightful and we felt fortified for the afternoon sprint! Bravely, I asked Hassan to slow the pace down, which he did. We could have shopped more but the whole group decided to use our regained strength to stop at the convention center and register for PURE Life Experiences, the reason we were in Marrakech.

Registration was a breeze for those attending PURE and we returned to the Four Seasons.  Because I had scheduled a private shopping tour while the PURISTS did what they were here to do, I wasn't particularly disappointed with the adrenaline inducing dash through the Medina. However, I was concerned that Hassan might behave like this with our clients-not good!

When we got out of the multiple personnel transport vehicle a/k/a the van, Hassan told us he had an emergency in the family and had to say good-bye to go to Fez. We learned that his uncle was in the hospital and had only a few hours left. Was this why we moved at Mach speed? Most likely! Joel's company is known for its quality guides and in-depth immersion into Morocco.

Our guide the next day, Jalil, was excellent! He shared wonderful stories about Morocco, past and present, and suddenly Marrakech and its culture began to make more sense to me. Three days later I returned to the Medina with another guide, Aziz, an absolute delight and a seasoned veteran guide with Heritage Tours. Aziz regaled me with stories about Marrakech. We ambled through the souks on this trip and I managed to find some mementos to send home. When I asked about Villa des Orangers, where Michael et al dined one night when my body said, "Stay at the hotel and rest!", Aziz arranged for me to have a private site inspection.

My morning with Jalil and the 2 1/2 hours with Aziz turned my discomfort with Marrakech into a fondness for the quirkiness and intrigue of this destination. It turned my "been there, done that" into "I will probably return someday, armed with my new found knowledge and my list of preferred hotels. Thank you, Jalil, Aziz, and thank you to Heritage Tours, who seamlessly provided us replacements for Hassan, and such high quality replacements, too! These types of situations, a guide suddenly departing or maybe a client not meshing with a guide, can dampen or even ruin a client's journey. How our partners in-country handle the situation makes all the difference. Heritage Tours proved it knows its stuff, is professional, and our clients would have been totally unaware of any changes or hiccups in the itinerary. To borrow a phrase from one of the major credit card brands, our relationship with Heritage Tours is "priceless"!

The moral of this story? First, this experience underscored a fact I already knew, the importance of a superior guide. Also, I accepted a new self-discovery, I no longer enjoy a diet of unpredictability, that this travel advisor prefers to have certain constants-a welcoming place in which to rest my weary body and a host who honors my desire to experience a destination while avoiding the rough edges.

If you have been following my hectic travel schedule of the past several weeks, you'll know I've been to China on two separate occasions, to Morocco and London. Thank you, Joel Zack, for sharing your passion for Morocco with me. Thank you,Guy Rubin and Nancy Kim, of Imperial Tours, for the ultimate, personalized experience in China, twice in a month! You are simply the BEST. Nothing more need be added.Xie, xie (thank you, in Chinese). 

And as Toto wrote in a note to Dorothy, "Done with Oz, took the shoes, and going back to Kansas!"

 

Arrival in Marrakech: Am I being deported?

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When I was in Tibet, I learned that tourism can be affected  by the whims of the "government", a word used to describe any form of regulatory body from local to national. We were supposed to picnic in one area and the "government" forbade it, so we dined elsewhere in a lovely spot  under the shade of a tree. I shrugged off the experience as insignificant.

Fast forward six weeks---When planning our flights to attend PURE, Michael and I chose to fly Easyjet from Gatwick to Marrakech. Easyjet, known for its pared down service and it's menu of service fees, has garnered a loyal following. I see a place for this type of offering for a short haul, but not for a flight over 1 1/2 hours. All coach and minimal legroom are doable, but seats that don't recline at all are the deal killer for me.

We arrived in Marrakech, enduring 3+ hours of sitting "at attention", and looked for our airport butler, a service offered in some countries that help new arrivals through the immigration lines and passport control. Not spotting our name on any placard, we darted o the shortest line. We waited obediently behind the designated line and, when our turn to be submit our passports came, we promptly stepped forward.

"No!" admonished the clerk sternly while straightening her uniform, "One!" Michael stepped back and left me to fend for myself with this impersonator of Attilla the Hun. I offered my best "suck-up" smile and hoped for the best. "Flight?" barked the Grand Inquisatrix. Oh my God, I forgot to write the flight number and fear coursed through my veins. A young woman a couple of people behind Michael volunteered the number. "8855," I told the wicked Witch of Morocco. She glared at me and shoved the form and a pen towards me. I scribbled the digits where instructed and after a moment more of glaring and a loud pounding of official stamps, I was allowed entry into Marrakech. She must have found Michael more to her liking because she processed his entry card quickly.

We were about to exit the area when a man, dressed in a suit, stopped us. I panicked-had Miss Congeniality alerted the "muscle" to teach me a lesson? "One moment, please" he said. "He said 'please' " I thought, "a good sign," I hoped. He motioned to another government-issue suited gentleman. The man joined our little conversation. "Mrs. King?" he inquired. "Yes," I whispered. "Follow me!" He grabbed my carryon and headed off at a rapid clip. He stopped in front of a baggage carousel piled with luggage recently unloaded from Paris. "Stay here." Giving me back my carryon, a better sign than the "please" of the other suit, he once again scurried off. A few moments later he reappeared carrying a luggage cart. I breathed a sigh of relief---we just met our airport butler! He quickly went in search of our luggage, definitely a challenge considering we were standing by the off-loaded Parisian bags. Emboldened by my realization of freedom from deportation, I moved our cart to the right carousel and quickly found our luggage. Our butler wheeled us and our cart out the door and into the waiting arms of our driver, who pleasantly drove us to the Four Seasons Marrakech.

Joel Zack, president and CEO of Heritage Tours Private Travel, our host for this brief 3 day introduction to Marrakech, asked us how our airport butler arrival was. Answering his question with a question, I asked if the person ever greeted people as they disembarked from the aircraft. "Well, they can't walk on the tarmac, of course, but are always at the top of the entranceway to the terminal," he responded, still waiting for my assessment of the butler, then added, "Where were you met?" We laughingly described our entry past Her Highness, the Growling Passport Agent, and Joel smiled. "Welcome to Morocco! This airport greeting service is fairly new here and sometimes these services are subject to those hiccups that are so distinctly Morocco." I shared with Joel the way the government in China may change tourism rules without notice. Joel explained that the Moroccan version, "It might be that a mid-level airport official had a fight with his wife, maybe a lousy night's sleep and for a moment procedures change."

Heritage Tours Private Travel's documents, as extensive as those offered by our favorite Chinese company, Imperial Tours, highly suggest in the paragraph about life in Morocco, "a sense of humor, a bit of patience and a smile go a long way." How right they are and not just in Morocco! Wouldn't we all be happier if we wore life like a loose garment?

Blogger's note: any exaggeration of the situation is purely coincidental and does not, in any way, reflect on the charming, thin-lipped Passport Control agent above (in case she reads this!).

If it's Wednesday, it must be Beijing or is it Shanghai?

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Wednesday, often called Hump Day, marked the last day in  Beijing and our first day in Shanghai. We squeezed in one more bit of sightseeing Wednesday morning in Beijing. We went to the Hutong area, one of Beijing's last and oldest neighborhoods. A hutong is traditionally described as a quadrangle of houses with the main house in the North. North is a very important concept to the Chinese and many historic areas are on a North-South line. When the Communists took over, they changed the main emphasis to East-West. They built a broad, multi-lane road that runs for 30 miles on an East-West axis. In fact, Raffles Hotel sits on that boulevard. While the government felt the change was important, people still held to the North-South concept. The government has relented and when they built the two main structures for the 2008 Olympics, the Bird's Nest and the Water Cube, they built them on a North-South line. The government now claims to be the custodian of the traditional China.

Our visit to the hutong began was a leisurely stroll through a market area and we were guided by Lijia Zhang, noted author and lecturer. Our next activity was a ride through the hutong area in rickshaws. We stopped along the way to admire the scenery and we spent some time in a park where our senses were bombarded by so many interesting sights and sounds--senior citizens exercizing, a man practicing calligraphy on the ground using a long brush and water, heated games of table tennis, grandparents and grandchildren playing together, and myriad of bicycles parked while people visited.

After a stop at the Westin Beijing to "test their plumbing" (one does NOT want to use the public restrooms, if possible!), we headed to the domestic terminal at the airport. We were escorted through the maze of people and queues and found our way to our gate for our flight to Shanghai. One last bit of elan, Imperial Tours had ordered each of us a takeout lunch of chicken and caesar salad to be delivered to the airport from one of their favorite delis.

The flight was uneventful (a good thing) and when we landed in Shanghai, we were greeted by our hosts for the second part of our journey, Patrick MacLeod and Gerald Hatherly and the staff of A&K. Once on our way in our motorcoaches, our guide gave us a brief history of Shanghai, often called "Paris of the East." I love Shanghai! Michael and I have talked about renting a place for a month at some future day so we can fully embrace this city. 

We exited the motorcoach and were surrounded by applause from the staff of the Ritz Carlton Pudong, who lined the way inside. They provided a lovely aperitif, we picked up our custom-made black velvet Mao jackets with brightly colored lining and headed to our rooms. My girlfriend, Sam, audibly gasped as we entered our room. "Oh my God," she said, "this is wonderful!" The girl has good taste because recently Conde Nast Traveler rated the Ritz Carlton Pudong as the best hotel in the world! 

Quick wardrobe change again and, voila, time to go to Flare, the loft-style restaurant and night club on the 58th floor. Food, food and more food--all of various Asian countries--was provided and we were entertained by a trio of female violinists playing pulsating and lively music. 

Next stop was back to our suites and the oh so comfy Ritz Carlton beds. We are most definitely in Shanghai!

Holy Chopstiks, Batman, it's the 2011 Virtuoso Chairman's Event in China!

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Hi, I’m back! It’s me, Barbara King, for twitter followers it’s @travelingking1, and my regular blog is www.travelingking.net, or you can follow me on our website, www.greatgetaways.travel. Last year I blogged my way through the Virtuoso Chairman’s event in Kenya. This year I have the honor of sharing the Virtuoso Chairman’s Event 2011 in Beijing and Shanghai.

The prequel: Along with my guest, Ms. Sam Wehunt, I arrived in Beijing on Saturday afternoon after a 12 ½ hour flight from SFO. Greeted by an airport butler, we were taken to China World Summit Wing Hotel, and we enjoyed a lovely night’s sleep followed by a private and very tasty breakfast hosted by the hotel for Virtuoso event attendees. Next, Nancy Kim, managing partner of Imperial Tours, took 37 of us on a fast-paced shopping tour. First stop was the Pearl Market and we all appreciated Nancy’s expert assistance in bargaining. Imperial Tours takes no commission from shop vendors so the original asking price is significantly lower than the average tourist is quoted.

Next, we strolled through the Antique Market and our tired feet and burning credit cards enjoyed a wonderful respite at the Park Hyatt Beijing. A “OMG” (oh my God, for those not Facebook or texting inclined) lunch was followed by a site inspection of their “contemporary feel” rooms. Many of us were ready to be dropped off at Raffles, our home for 3 nights of the Chairman’s event, while the veteran shoppers continued on to the Silk Market.

 

Virtuoso Chairman’s Event: The opening - Last night, Raffles hosted us at the Opening Cocktail Reception. Signing the guest book in traditional Chinese inkstone, ink and brush, we were escorted inside by beautifully gowned hostesses. Food stations offered dim sum, Peking duck, succulent crispy pork, a variety of fresh, cold noodle salads, and passed hors d’ouevers of pate, shrimp, and ,and, and….It was so fun to see friends I had shared previous Chairman’s events as well as connect with “first timers”, those new to the event. I remember the first time I “qualified” for a Chairman’s event, 2008 in India, and how overwhelming it felt and yet totally wonderful. Now I feel like I am attending a family reunion with family members who all get along! While we see each other at Travel Mart every year, we are so busy interacting with vendors we don’t get to spend much time networking among ourselves.

 

This morning began with a complete breakfast buffet followed by a meeting for members and activities for guests. The theme was summed up by Guy Rubin, Managing Partner (along with Nancy Kim) of Imperial Tours and our Beijing host, “China-the lure of the past and the impact on our future.” Speakers included the Vice Chairman of the China Tourism Administration; Lijia Xhang, noted author; David Ben Kay, who cemented the relationship between China and Microsoft, now owner of a gallery and art incubator; and two college students, Shuai Yang-age 22 and an undergrad at Communications University, and Yan Wanqiu-a 27 year old grad student at Remnin University.

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Focus on our industry came from Guy Rubin’s talk focused on the importance of China in the travel world as well as the great value offered in China. Patrick Macleod, Managing Director of A&K Hong Kong, focused on the new opportunities and new cities to visit in China. Virtuoso’s CEO, Matthew Upchurch, reminded us of the immense effect our industry, in total, has on the world GDP and David Kolner and Scott Ahlsmith, of 23 Touchpoints, showed how mining our data offered valuable insights into the profile of the Virtuoso traveler who visits China.

The takeaway message from this morning is that China is growing and changing. It is an exciting source of fresh ideas, possibilities and new solutions. What impressed me was the fact a person who visits China is likely to return at least twice more. This journey is my 4th visit to China and I already am mentally planning my next China itinerary!

I know this was a more “reporting of the facts” kind of blog post today-short on clever, long on details. That’s the price I pay for blogging while exhausted AND there are two more wonderful experiences to describe from today, lunch at Opposite House Hotel and Aman’s dinner at the Summer Palace. Alas, those will wait until tomorrow when, hopefully, I will be less prone to crashing my head onto the keyboard of my laptop. I’m so tired that almost every other word is misspelled, or is it Miss Spelled, or is it…oh who cares, that’s it for tonight!

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Barbara S King   l   Co-President   l    www.greatgetaways.travel   l   913.338.2244   l    Virtuoso Member

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This is my final answer: My picks of China hotels from our recent journey

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St. Regis Lhasa 
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 Inviting bedroom in Historic wing of Waldorf Astoria on the Bund
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 Feels so inviting at the Waldorf Astoria on the Bund
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The Peninsula Shanghai
I didn't need to call a friend or poll the audience! After much thought and consideration, here are my favorite hotels from our recent journey to China. Last week, I offered a list of the perfect hotel room. Now that I've had several more experiences in Shanghai, Chengdu, Huangshan, Hangzhou, and Lhasa, I have a new order of favorites and I proudly share them below:

St. Regis Lhasa-I wasn't sure how I'd react to plush luxe in Lhasa. It seemed like an oxymoron, but it works. It really does. The use of native materials, granite, stone and wood; the decor, a mixture of muted colors accessories of tactile native crafts and religious items, and amazing photographs and paintings; the service is impeccable (attention Chinese hotels that complain how difficult it is to train their staff to Western standards, maybe Magdy Anis will allow you to sit in on his training classes); the butlers were a silly affectation (it's a St. Regis thing) but fun; and the food was divine. The architecture was about blending into the city and not sitting in some awkward, juxtaposed out-of-place way.

Waldorf Astoria on the Bund: a Shanghai MUST STAY. Last night, the final night of this Chinese journey, I stayed in a suite in the historic old building and LOVED everything about it-even though it did not have a brainy toilet like the new wing (go back a few posts for my love affair with the brainy toilet). My Tip: request a suite facing the river in the old wing ( there are only a few) or a suite in the new tower facing the river. What won me over and moved the Waldorf to my absolute fave for Shanghai was the in-room check-in. Last week after sampling the Waldorf and the Peninsula, i picked the Peninsula. The main decider was en suite check-in. Last night i had that luxury at the Waldorf, and, thus my new #1 in Shanghai. Some people are devoted to other Shanghai properties, but at this writing, I prefer the Puxi side of Shanghai, on the Bund, with great service and an excellent breakfast (you may recall that the Peninsula's breakfast was totally scrambled and unorganized).

Peninsula Hotel Shanghai: The clubby feeling at the Peninsula would comfort a solo traveler and some people still appreciate the signature outfit of the Peninsula bellman. Beautiful hotel and the first new build in years on the Bund. I like the Peninsula tradition but prefer the history of the Waldorf Astoria.

The next must stay hotel is the Amanfayun in Hangzhou-picturesque and tucked into a spiritual area. It is very soothing and spiritual and when they improve their lighting in rooms and on pathways (rooms are scheduled for increased lighting this winter), it will be a solid recommendation.

Other places we stayed or inspected were adequate, even perhaps, the best of the area, but truly not worthy of comment---except I did like the Four Seasons Hangzhou, just a little too Western compared to the Aman.

I know several of you have been to China. What are your favorite places to stay?

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 Four Seasons Hangzhou                                               

Kung Fu Panda: A lesson in Chengdu

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I admit I did not see Kung Fu Panda, but when I read about the movie, I decided one of the themes of the film applied to our experience in Chengdu, China. The sacred scroll that Po received was was blank. Po's father explained that something becomes special because people think it is special.

Chengdu is known for it's panda refuge and breeding program. Because they resemble bears, people in the West sometimes call them panda bears; however, our guide, Rebecca ( most service workers pick Western names when dealing with the public - John was our first guide and Leo was our second guide) explained that pandas are their own breed.

We arrived early at the Panda Reserve in order to catch them at an active time before the heat of the day invited the pandas to sleep. The pandas are grouped by age - adults, 3 year olds, 2 year olds, 1 year, a few months, and a newborn nursery. I defy you to wander through the park and not want to take a panda or two home! The newborns aren't particularly cute, you might describe them as having a face only a mother could love. Even so, all the pandas, the more recognizable black and white, as well as the red pandas, more raccoon-like, were "special". Because this was a long holiday weekend, the popular Autumn Festival about to start, the park quickly swelled with Chinese tourists, apparently deeming the pandas extremely special, too.

After a delicious Sichuan lunch (yes, that translates as spicy, but not wildly so), we went to the Sanxingdui (Three Star Piles) Museum. In 1929 a farmer found some jade and the following dig around the area has produced a wealth of artifacts.

The next morning we drove about an hour to a Daoist temple, our guide for that experience a Daoist monk. The temple was beautiful, ornate, and clouds of prayer incense wafted through the air. The monk talked about yin and yang, Daoist art, and Daoist philosophy. Then, we experienced something very special, indeed. The monk took us to the private dormitory of these holy men and invited us into his room. He had an ancient Chinese instrument on which he played a Daoist song about drunken men. We saw beautiful water color landscapes of mountains and rivers on his walls, yes, painted by him. One of them won a national award. He had a small bed, warming plate for his tea (the tea ceremony is extremely important in Daoism), a microwave, lots of books, bottled water and a laptop.

Leaving the room we entered the courtyard and watched the monk perform some Tai Chi, so graceful and powerful. Was this special? Absolutely! Many people visit China, but very few enjoy the experience of participating in a monk's private life. This is one of many of the delights that Guy and Nancy, of Imperial Tours, include and is one of the things that sets them apart.

An aside: most tour companies include shopping stops at places they pick. The shop owners give the guides and the tour companies a kickback. Imperial Tours is the only company that does not participate in this charade. While they will glad offer names of shops and take you there AT YOUR REQUEST, you will never be "guided" to one that offers "very good price", "make good deal for you", or "we think this store is good, reputable."

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Holy Chopsticks, Batman, we're off to China!

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Grab a cup of tea, put on your readers, go to www.greatgetaways.travel/blog to follow our next journey to Unique Destinations of China: Shanghai, Huangshan, Hangzhou, Chengdu, and Lhasa. Guy Rubin and his team at Imperial Tours have created a two week experience for a select group of seasoned travel advisors. Michael and I will fly to Shanghai and enjoy two nights at the famed Waldorf Astoria on the Bund before joining our group at the Peninsula Hotel. Then we are off on an incredible two week experience! Stay tuned for updates and photos. 

When I return home from Lhasa, Michael will fly to Katmandu to begin a trek to Base Camp of Mt. Everest. He plans to blog when possible, so I know reading  www.greatgetaways.travel/blog will top your "to do" list for days, right?
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