St. Regis Lhasa 

 Inviting bedroom in Historic wing of Waldorf Astoria on the Bund

 Feels so inviting at the Waldorf Astoria on the Bund

The Peninsula Shanghai

St. Regis Lhasa-I wasn't sure how I'd react to plush luxe in Lhasa. It seemed like an oxymoron, but it works. It really does. The use of native materials, granite, stone and wood; the decor, a mixture of muted colors accessories of tactile native crafts and religious items, and amazing photographs and paintings; the service is impeccable (attention Chinese hotels that complain how difficult it is to train their staff to Western standards, maybe Magdy Anis will allow you to sit in on his training classes); the butlers were a silly affectation (it's a St. Regis thing) but fun; and the food was divine. The architecture was about blending into the city and not sitting in some awkward, juxtaposed out-of-place way.

Waldorf Astoria on the Bund: a Shanghai MUST STAY. Last night, the final night of this Chinese journey, I stayed in a suite in the historic old building and LOVED everything about it-even though it did not have a brainy toilet like the new wing (go back a few posts for my love affair with the brainy toilet). My Tip: request a suite facing the river in the old wing ( there are only a few) or a suite in the new tower facing the river. What won me over and moved the Waldorf to my absolute fave for Shanghai was the in-room check-in. Last week after sampling the Waldorf and the Peninsula, i picked the Peninsula. The main decider was en suite check-in. Last night i had that luxury at the Waldorf, and, thus my new #1 in Shanghai. Some people are devoted to other Shanghai properties, but at this writing, I prefer the Puxi side of Shanghai, on the Bund, with great service and an excellent breakfast (you may recall that the Peninsula's breakfast was totally scrambled and unorganized).

Peninsula Hotel Shanghai: The clubby feeling at the Peninsula would comfort a solo traveler and some people still appreciate the signature outfit of the Peninsula bellman. Beautiful hotel and the first new build in years on the Bund. I like the Peninsula tradition but prefer the history of the Waldorf Astoria.

The next must stay hotel is the Amanfayun in Hangzhou-picturesque and tucked into a spiritual area. It is very soothing and spiritual and when they improve their lighting in rooms and on pathways (rooms are scheduled for increased lighting this winter), it will be a solid recommendation.

Other places we stayed or inspected were adequate, even perhaps, the best of the area, but truly not worthy of comment---except I did like the Four Seasons Hangzhou, just a little too Western compared to the Aman.

I know several of you have been to China. What are your favorite places to stay?

Amanfayun 

 Four Seasons Hangzhou                                               

Yes, there are Lhasa Apsos in Lhasa! A 2 1/2 hour flight from Chengdu brought us to Lhasa,Tibet - land of spirituality, kind people, warm days and crisp mountain nights, prayer flags, brightly colored Tibetan Buddhist temples, prayer wheels, incense everywhere, and quite possibly some of the best people watching I've enjoyed (equal to or better than the mountains of Peru). A long apron is a fitting adornment for a married woman, a long mane of hair circling a man's head and neatly held in place with a tassel signifies a certain tribe just as jewels woven through a woman's hairdo signifies another. (Hello, jewelry merchandisers in the US, your missing a "golden" opportunity---okay, Shelly, I heard you groan at that double entendre!)

Pilgrims trek to Lhasa all year long. They take a step, say certain prayers, prostrate themselves, get up walk the few steps to the point their fingers reached when prostrated and repeat the process. While it seemed curious and laborious, the Pilgrims unshakable faith touched my heart. Sometimes a pilgrimage could last a year two, occasionally more,one step and multiple prayers at a time.

Our address in Lhasa, the newly opened St. Regis Lhasa, the first luxury hotel to open in the region, beautifully and considerately blended into the surroundings. Impeccable service, decor that invited serenity and comfort, incredible views of the Putella, and rooms that almost anticipate your needs.

Our guide, Penpa, defied the uncomfortable and identity-stripping habit of Westernizing people's names. His name is simple. Penpa is Tibetan for Saturday, the day of the week he was born. Penpa guided us though the main temple, even leadingnus to the rooftop to enjoy the views of the Potala in the distance as well as having a bird's eye view of the shpping and bargaining below on the Barkhor surrounding the temple.

Following the temple visit, we went to the summer home of the Dali Lama (who fled Tibet in 1959 because of the long struggle between the two countries---Tibet is legally now part of China and the ever-present military strolling throughout the city is a very strong reminder of that). Outside the Summer palace was a colorful tent protecting a table dressed in fine china, crystal and silver. We were told we'd be having a picnic and, as picnics go, this was uber elegant! To our surprise and pleasure, Imperial Tours invited a well-respected monk to dine with us. He invited questions about himself, his religion and the Tibetan culture. One quickly realizes that there are never discussions about politics (in the US, political discussions are taboo in social situations, too). This gentle man, almost cuddly, often smiling and sometimes pensive offered us an opportunity to view the window to his soul, his beliefs, his philosophy of giving from a pure heart. Most of our meal seemed strange to him, salmon, wild mushrooms and asparagus, but he enjoyed the bottled water.

From summer palace to monastery, we had the good fortune to experience two events. First, we watched the monks debating. The monk who stood fired a question to the seated monk, punctuating the end of his question with a loud clap. The monastery courtyard was filled with pairs of monks verbally sparring. Then a small bell signaled an early call to prayers (due to the mid Autumn Festival). The monks moved to another end of the courtyard, sat in a three row deep circle (including a prime front row seat for a dog) and began chanting.

I must have been expecting something similar to the sounds of Adiemus, made popular some years ago in an ad for Delta Airlines. What I heard sounded joyous, upbeat. For those who remember the Dick Clark Show, it had a good beat and you could dance to it!

Michael went to the Potala  Palace without me. The many, many steps, some were ladder like, intimidated me. From his photos, it looked beautiful. One must reserve a ticket to go to the palace and the government assigns you a time. Allow at least a day ahead of your planned visit to purchase your ticket and, no, you can't order them before you arrive-no online service, no Tibetan Ticketmaster, it's a face-to-face thing.

Our last day in Lhasa held lots of sensory experiences: the Potala for the more agile of our group, a site inspection at the St Regis, probably the finest hotel I've experienced in 3 visits to this China, a visit to a nunnery where we were invited to sit and meditate while the women chanted their prayers and we lunched on the grounds of the nunnery. We split up once again, the intrepid going to hike around another monastery at 14,000 feet while the rest of us felt 12,000 feet elevation was high enough. Following the inviting call of the Tibetan Shopping Bird, we strolled the old town area-butchers hanging their fresh yak across the way from children's clothes, next to sacred figurines, next to bulk candy shops,and across from prayer flags and dried herbs.  Exotic and chaotic, the area is so much fun...and you guessed it, more priceless people watching.

Tibet has it all-mountains that pierce the clouds, breathtaking views, kind people, lots of photo ops, all wrapped in the comfort of a strong, palpable spirituality. Tibet, I would be honored to return to your mountain home. May peace be with you.