Yaks, Sherpas and Earthquakes, oh my! Phakding to Namche Bazaar – elevation 11,700

(download)

Another 8 AM star to what became a long day.  We left Phakding and headed north along the banks of the Dudh Kosi (Milk River), crossing back and forth on suspension bridges five times.  We pass Ghat Village and entered the Sagramatha National Park and shortly thereafter stopped for lunch beside the river.  There was a steady stream of Sherpas carrying almost anything you can imagine including doors, beams, and lumber for a house construction.  After lunch we crossed the river for the last time and began a long climb (gaining a total of 2700 feet of altitude by the time we reached our destination.

The climb itself began with switchbacks and after reaching the ridge line we traverse this for another 2.5 miles and came to Namche.  We hiked through Namche to Namche Bazaar and a wonderful hotel called Panorama Lodge – with hot showers, and electric blankets to keep us warm, and another hot meal from our cook!

A few words about our Sherpa team: our head Sherpa – called a Shirdar – summited Everest 7 times; our cook and cooked for 19 climbing teams at Everest Base Camp – so we are in very experienced hands!

There was on unexpected occurrence.  Around 6:45 pm the hotel shook a bit, paused and then started really shaking.  We all look at each other and then made a bolt for the door along with a couple of other groups and all the staff.  I got outside and stood in a light drizzle for about 10 minutes waiting for my heart to stop racing – I never experienced an earthquake.  Turns out the quake measured 6.9 and was centered in Northern India.  It apparently caused mudslides in India and killed several people.

We went back inside and finished dinner and around 30 minutes later 30 children arrived and came into the hotel from the local boarding school, very frighten from the quake and the hotel put mattresses down on the floor and the kids spent the night here with us at Panorama Lodge.

The next day – Monday – we rested in Namche Bazaar enjoying the village, surrounding mountains even though clouds were low and constantly moving through we were able to get quick glimpses of Lhotse and Lhotse Star – two mountains at 8500 and 8350 meters high respectively which are east of Everest. In fact Lhotse shares a saddle with Everest.

We also visited a Sherpa memorial and a Buddhist monastery.  In the afternoon I rested a bit and then caught up on emails and of course what you are now reading. 

More soon!

 

Ain't No Mountain High Enough: Lucky to be in Lukla

 
Lukla_tophakding_118
  
Lukla_tophakding_031_1
  
(download)
Today, September 17th, I got up at 3:45 AM to prepare to depart the hotel and head for the airport to fly to Lukla which is the start of the trek to Everest base camp.  The plane we fly was a 24 seat Otter and the pilots were wonderful!  We came in to Lukla and landed beautifully – the reason I praise this is at 9400 feet and one of the shortest runway in the world – this is considered by many to be a very scary airport.  They hustled us off and moved us quickly to an outside area so they could board passengers heading back to Katmandu and take off- the entire time on the ground was less than 30 minutes!
Our head Sherpa Phinjo met us and we went into the village of Lukla and a home/restaurant where we were served hot Tang- yes Tang! Apparently this is what they served a lot of in this region along with coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. We had a chance to repack our duffel bags and then I loaded up my back pack and we set out along a fairly wide trail which went up and down – but mostly down so they we finished at 8700 feet.  We walked through several villages and rural areas passing other trekkers and many Sherpas carry everything from propane tanks to logs on their backs.
About two hours in we stopped and ate some lunch ( it was only 10:30 but since I had been up so early it felt like lunch time).  Very nice meal – fried eggs, potatoes, and cooked vegetables and then bread which I put peanut butter and jam on.  I topped off my water also – cannot drink too much water – and returned to trekking the trail.  The scenery is spectacular and we crossed a few suspension bridges – back and forth over a raging river.  We also passed the notorious Yaks – up close and personal – which what look like very sharp horns. 
For the most part everyone did fine this first day, we were not in extreme altitude – staying between 8500 and 9000 feet and reached our lodge about 1:30 in the afternoon – so not a particularly long day on the trail.  I was grateful for this because I was tired from the early morning start.  We had very good weather with sun and some clouds and about 1 hour after reaching the lodge it started to rain and as I type this it is still drizzling out.
Tomorrow will be a bit longer as we continue up the river valley and then climb and gain altitude until we reach Namche where on the third day we get a rest day to acclimatize. 
We do not have internet here and I would have to go back up the trail about  a mile or so to find a place with service so I am preparing this blog and the pictures with the hope of having internet somewhere in Namche,
More to follow...

NOTE: Michael will NOT have Internet connectivity again until October 1 so feel free to read and re-read this blog often to stay in the trekking mode {insert appropriate smiley face here A  :-)  B ;-)   C:-))  or D ;-)) or E all of the above}

Ain’t No Mountain High Enough: Katmandu Can Do

 
Katmandu_063
 
Katmandu_079
 
Katmandu_market_029
Michael King’s trek to Base Camp Everest continued…
SEPTEMBER 14th:  I arrived safely in Katmandu about 30 minutes late (Air China offered no reason for the delay).  When I went to the airport this morning the driver let me out in front of the domestic terminal even though he knew I was headed to Katmandu- so I went into the terminal and waited in line and then the ticket counter woman told me “wrong terminal” and gave me halting directions for the international terminal which I found without difficulty.
Here I lined up with about 15 other travelers waiting for the Chinese official to decide when to allow us to enter.  About 15 minutes later we entered and for the most part I experienced little difficulty getting through customs and to the waiting area for the plane
On the ride over I was looking out at the broken cloud cover down to the brown mountainous terrain below (we were flying at 32,000 feet) and then I happened to look straight out and there in the distance were several white peaks of the Himalayas – these were easy 25,000 feet or more and had several hundred to a couple of thousand of feet of mountain showing and they were magnificent – just about took my breath. Then a short while later the pilot announced we were going to pass by Mt. Everest – of course I was on the wrong side but I did see a bit of this incredible mountain.  I hopefully will see “Mother Earth” as the Sherpa name “Chomolungma” means along with several other 7,000 to 8,000 meter mountains.  I can’t wait!
Arriving in Nepal (somewhat old airport) I went and filled out my visa form and gain entry into Nepal and was excited to see my luggage made the trip with me, went out and found my A&K ground transfer and they took me to the Dwarika Hotel – very nice.  Katmandu is a real sprawl of a city – four and a half million people live in a wide valley between two mountain ranges.  The city appears to have a high air pollution (reminded me a bit of L.A.).  Tomorrow I will tour a bit with A & K and with others of our group that have arrived early.  The time here is 10 hour and 45 minutes ahead of our central time.

SEPTEMBER 15TH:  I was up early and after breakfast met our guide whose name sounds like ‘my nose’ who drove myself and another of our party – Jan – to a Kali temple out of the city.  Along the way he explained that in 1996 the Maoist started a war against the government which was then a monarchy in an attempt to overthrow the government and establish a People’s Republic (Maoist are communist by another name).  In 2006 the U.N brokered a comprehensive peace agreement and the Republic of Nepal was born. The U.N. established an office in Katmandu to monitor the political situation to insure a peaceful transition of government.  What happened because of the war is Katmandu grew from around 900,000 to it’s present day population of 4.5 million mainly because people in the rural areas came to Katmandu seeking refuge.  This put a severe strain on the public services – water, sewerage, roads, power, schools, and medical facilities from which Katmandu is still trying to recover.  The unemployment hovers around 50% in the country and many leave the country looking for work.
There are a total of 27 million people living in Nepal and the major religion is Hindu (80%) followed by Buddhism at 10%, and Christianity at 7%.  The temple we went to honors the goddess Kali who helps mortals improve their character (or so we were told); it is a form of Hinduism called Shakti and is an old practice over 1000 years – it requires sacrifice and here at this temple people come and sacrifice sheep, water buffaloes, goats, chickens, and ducks.  This supposedly helps the person rid themselves of ignorance, anger, confusion, greed, and lust. I was able to receive a blessing from a holy man for my journey (see pictures) which I found very special.  
The afternoon was spent getting a trekking briefing (found out we all packed too much), going over our route to Everest, discussing altitude sickness and its effects, and various other details and questions.
We will have a group leader – a Sherpa named Phinjo; a cook named Tamding; and two additional Sherpas named Mingma and Ramesh Rai. The group consist of two single young men (35 or under) a married couple from Peoria (probably in their 50s) a single woman – Jan who is 61 and then a man named bill from Boston who competes with me for the oldest in the group.  After getting the briefing we visited the oldest market in Nepal  and boy was it chaotic – you had to watch out for people, motor bikes (most common method people use to get around) and cars all moving on very narrow street – sometimes with no sidewalks.
Tomorrow morning we tour another part of the city and then in the afternoon I will repack and rest – we leave the next day at 05:00- I can’t wait to get on the trail.
Katmandu_083
 
Hotel_dwarika_katmandu_017
 
Hotel_dwarika_katmandu_020

Holy Chopsticks, Batman, we're off to China!

Unique_destinations_of_china_i

Grab a cup of tea, put on your readers, go to www.greatgetaways.travel/blog to follow our next journey to Unique Destinations of China: Shanghai, Huangshan, Hangzhou, Chengdu, and Lhasa. Guy Rubin and his team at Imperial Tours have created a two week experience for a select group of seasoned travel advisors. Michael and I will fly to Shanghai and enjoy two nights at the famed Waldorf Astoria on the Bund before joining our group at the Peninsula Hotel. Then we are off on an incredible two week experience! Stay tuned for updates and photos. 

When I return home from Lhasa, Michael will fly to Katmandu to begin a trek to Base Camp of Mt. Everest. He plans to blog when possible, so I know reading  www.greatgetaways.travel/blog will top your "to do" list for days, right?
Unique_destinations_of_china_m
Unique_destinations_of_china_d

 

Ain't no mountain high enough...

Attention, trekkers and adventurers as well as those whose derfinition of adventure travel is to stay at a Holiday Inn with a black and white TV with no pool, this message is for you!

Michael King                                             
Michael
 is going to t
rek   
9988599-a-male-mountaineer-wal
up to
Arrow
 Base Camp
Everest_base_camp
of Mt Everest
Mt_everest2
     
Beginning September 14, 2011
Follow Michael's trek to Base Camp on our blog: