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Travelingking
Imagine . Create . Experience
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Our Hearts Beat Together
A couple of years ago we sent out a YouTube video of the song "Stand by me" from "Playing for Change". The message is as valid today as it was in 2009, perhaps even more so.
Experiencing our world and making new friends wherever we go is our passion and our mission is to help you enjoy the same joy.
Our friends at Micato expressed our truth in their holiday wish to us and we happily pass it on to you: Wherever we are in the world or in life...our hearts beat together.
May your actions touch those around you with love and kindness and may peace embrace our souls...
Once again, enjoy the video of "Stand By Me":
Take an armchair trek in Nepal!
Michael King, my favorite mountain man, created this visual memoir of his trek to Base Camp Everest, or as the insiders say and my new wool cap says, "BC Everest!"
Ain't No Mountain High Enough: Gifts of the Journey
Namche Bazaar to Lukla --- September 28th --- The day began early – we had about 12 to 14 miles to trek – mostly downhill and we were all eager to get going. The day was nice- temperatures in the mid to upper 50s I think, and we made good progress. Our route took us from Namche to the river and then down the valley until we were to approach Lukla which required us to ascend about 800 feet.
As luck would have it we had to ascend a bit early – trekking the valley meant going back and forth over the river on suspension bridges. The next to last one was down – probably due to the huge rock slide which came down the mountain in the recent storms. We reached this point and stopped and looked around – not knowing where we go. The answer was right in front of us- we go up! And I mean serious ascent!- We had to climb up the side of the mountain – sometimes hand over hand, hanging on to trees and pulling ourselves up using anything available- our poles, trees, sometimes large rocks etc.. until we were over one thousand feet above the river and able to move around the origin of the rock slide. While we were climbing up – other trekkers and many Sherpas were coming down with huge loads on their backs (including, my friends tell me, a washing machine still in its box). I can only tell you that I was glad we were not at 15,000 feet trying to do this- tough enough at 8500 feet. Once we got above the rock slide the rest was fairly easy and straight forward and we arrived in Lukla in time for afternoon tea!
That night as we all headed back to our rooms after dinner I know I wasn’t the only one hoping for clear skies in the morning so the planes could land; and the morning came and we did have clear skies- at least sufficient that the planes arrived and we got on ours and headed back to Kathmandu. Once there we all went to work on changing our flights so we could leave as early as possible. I made it out on Friday evening (actually early Saturday morning around 1:15 AM0 through Hong Kong and then back to the USA. I was able to have Sunday as a rest day (and also to familiarize myself with my old life) before heading back to work on Monday morning. Today is Wednesday – my original arrival home day – and I am still suffering some of the effects from jet lag.
This was quite a trip – everything I expected and more- with an earthquake (my 1st experience), rain almost every day, snow storm, a plane crashed near Mt. Everest while we were nearby – didn’t see it though, washed out trails, rockslides, avalanches, and, by the way, great traveling companions!
I am really glad I got to do this and I am equally glad I am home at last!
Following this is my interpretation of GIFTS which I received.
GIFTS
Gift with Purchase!
Almost every time I travel I experience a gift which I had not planned on getting- I never know what this might be and usually do not even realize I have received this gift until I am on my way back home.
My Gift with Purchase is coming to know the people referred to as SHERPAS. These people migrated from Tibet over 500 years ago and settled in the region of the Himalayas. I got to know a bit about these incredible people on this trek. First off they appear to be very content with their lot in life- this is quite unusual to begin with- I never heard any complaining or wishing that something was different from anyone of them. I also never witness any of them from teenager to very old sitting or standing around doing nothing as I see so many in the places that I visit. Instead they are always working- tending to their truck farms, helping build a new home or store, and carrying large loads on their backs over hundreds of miles of trails- up and down the mountains. You see there aren’t any motorized vehicles – nothing- not a car, truck or farm equipment- no roads of highways- just the trails they walk along with their yaks. These people are generally smaller than I am – though not by much and probably average 140 pounds –yet I often seeing them carrying over 150 pounds on their backs. They average about $300 a year income which is hard to imagine – living by what they grow on the side of the hills and mountains. The ones who own yaks are the “higher income” ones – and yet they do not have televisions, or electrical heat, and most do not have an indoor toilet. Their homes are quite simple and center on one room where there is a stove for heat and cooking- the remainder of the home is without any heat at all. They are all Buddhist which in itself is unusual in Nepal which is over 80% Hindu. They all have a smile and a greeting for you as you pass on the trail- quite a gift – these Sherpas – my fellow humans!
PARTING GIFTS
One cannot trek this region for two weeks without a few parting gifts. Gifts like abrasions from falling on the slippery stones, or banged up toes from hitting the front of your boots for hours on end while you are going downhill. And then there are the incredibly sore muscles – in your legs and even your feet ache from walking on such uneven ground for so long!
Yes I have these and a couple of others- indigestion from the daily diet and a nose bleed form the dry air- and these are all to be expected- proof that I did walk every mile carrying my backpack and I have the parting gifts to prove it!
So this is it for now- hopefully you enjoyed my blog and especially the pictures which my Love is now editing and will post on line for anyone who is interested.
So until we meet again I will paraphrase form the old Irish saying- “May the wind always be at your back and may the sun shine on your face!”
Safe Travels!
Michael
The trek to Base Camp in pictures
Some of you have asked if we have photos of Michael’s trek to Base Camp Everest. We’ve included many photos with the blog posts. For those with an aversion to the written word or have a passion for the amazing beauty of nature, here are links to the photos Michael has sent from Nepal.
WARNING: THESE PHOTOS MAY ENTICE YOU TO PLAN A TREK OR, FOR THOSE WHO THINK ADVENTURE MEANS STAYING AT A HOLIDAY INN WITH A BLACK AND WHITE TV AND NO POOL (LIKE BARBARA KING), THESE PHOTOS MAY CAUSE YOU TO PLAN A PAMPERED WEEK AT CANYON RANCH MIAMI BEACH!
https://picasaweb.google.com/106122130844310214259/Katmandu
https://picasaweb.google.com/106122130844310214259/LuklaToPhakdingNepal
https://picasaweb.google.com/106122130844310214259/NamcheBazaar
https://picasaweb.google.com/106122130844310214259/NamehToThameAndThameToKhumjung
https://picasaweb.google.com/106122130844310214259/TengbocheToPheriche
https://picasaweb.google.com/106122130844310214259/PhericheToLoboje
Ain't No Mountain High Enough: Pheriche to Loboje Sunday September 25, 2011
We left at the usual time – 7:00 AM and trekked across Phulangkarpo Pasteur which is the wide valley to the north of Pheriche; along the way my right nostril started bleeding a bit- the air is very dry and cold and my nose does not do well in very dry climates. I tried to stop it while walking and was able to at least pack it so it didn’t bleed over any of my clothing – but it wasn’t until we stopped for lunch that I was able to really attend to it.
After the valley we began to climb up a steep ascent to the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier- the same one that Everest climbers have to negotiate on their route up the mountain. The climb was more a bit more challenging because we did it in a steady cold rain follow by a changeover to ice crystals.
One woman in our party was unable to climb much higher than Pheriche so she decided to hire a horse and ride up to base camp. I wasn’t aware that this was an option but it is. The woman felt confident because she rode horses and she was showing any signs of altitude sickness. Well in retrospect it turn and bruised has backside a bit. Still she decided to go on after the strap was fixed and at the top to the climb on a fairly level path the horse spooked a bit because there were many trekkers on the trail and threw her again and this time she was also dragged a bit. She suffered some trauma and additional injuries and she is now awaiting a helicopter to fly her out and back to Kathmandu.
This is a serious trek and people who attempt it must be in good physical and mental shape and be ready for difficulty along the way. I honestly tried to appraise my own condition and mental ability before I left and I felt strongly that I can do this trek – but I also held no allusion how hard it would be, and it has lived up to as hard as I thought it would be. My biggest variable is altitude sickness- I have been as high as we are going on this trek but that time it was much less strenuous and the weather was basically warm during the days with no rain – not the case here.
So tomorrow we are going to set out for base camp in the middle of the Khumbu glacier and I am hoping I can do one more day and get to Base Camp and maybe even see the famous Khumbu ice falls from a distance!)
Until then…
Ain't No Mountain High Enough: Khumjung to Tengboche Thursday September 22
As we were leaving Khumjung the skies cleared a bit and we saw both Ama Dablam (21,670 ft.) and Kantega (22, 240 ft.) – both were spectacular in the early morning sunlight! We headed down hill to the river Dudh Khosi (Milk River) so named because it is glacier runoff and not clear at all. The going was not difficult and we made good time arriving at Phunki by 9:15 in the morning. This was our designated lunch stop so even though it was early – we stopped and had soup, potatoes, and a cheese pie of sorts.
After lunch we had a hard climb gaining 1600 feet of altitude in just under 90 minutes to the top of the saddle between Ama Dablam and Kantega and this is our stop for the night. I am now sitting here at about 1:30 typing this and we are all hoping the skies clear again so maybe we might see Everest.
More to follow
Yaks, Sherpas and Earthquakes, oh my! Phakding to Namche Bazaar – elevation 11,700
Another 8 AM star to what became a long day. We left Phakding and headed north along the banks of the Dudh Kosi (Milk River), crossing back and forth on suspension bridges five times. We pass Ghat Village and entered the Sagramatha National Park and shortly thereafter stopped for lunch beside the river. There was a steady stream of Sherpas carrying almost anything you can imagine including doors, beams, and lumber for a house construction. After lunch we crossed the river for the last time and began a long climb (gaining a total of 2700 feet of altitude by the time we reached our destination.
The climb itself began with switchbacks and after reaching the ridge line we traverse this for another 2.5 miles and came to Namche. We hiked through Namche to Namche Bazaar and a wonderful hotel called Panorama Lodge – with hot showers, and electric blankets to keep us warm, and another hot meal from our cook!
A few words about our Sherpa team: our head Sherpa – called a Shirdar – summited Everest 7 times; our cook and cooked for 19 climbing teams at Everest Base Camp – so we are in very experienced hands!
There was on unexpected occurrence. Around 6:45 pm the hotel shook a bit, paused and then started really shaking. We all look at each other and then made a bolt for the door along with a couple of other groups and all the staff. I got outside and stood in a light drizzle for about 10 minutes waiting for my heart to stop racing – I never experienced an earthquake. Turns out the quake measured 6.9 and was centered in Northern India. It apparently caused mudslides in India and killed several people.
We went back inside and finished dinner and around 30 minutes later 30 children arrived and came into the hotel from the local boarding school, very frighten from the quake and the hotel put mattresses down on the floor and the kids spent the night here with us at Panorama Lodge.
The next day – Monday – we rested in Namche Bazaar enjoying the village, surrounding mountains even though clouds were low and constantly moving through we were able to get quick glimpses of Lhotse and Lhotse Star – two mountains at 8500 and 8350 meters high respectively which are east of Everest. In fact Lhotse shares a saddle with Everest.
We also visited a Sherpa memorial and a Buddhist monastery. In the afternoon I rested a bit and then caught up on emails and of course what you are now reading.
More soon!
Ain't No Mountain High Enough: Lucky to be in Lukla
Today, September 17th, I got up at 3:45 AM to prepare to depart the hotel and head for the airport to fly to Lukla which is the start of the trek to Everest base camp. The plane we fly was a 24 seat Otter and the pilots were wonderful! We came in to Lukla and landed beautifully – the reason I praise this is at 9400 feet and one of the shortest runway in the world – this is considered by many to be a very scary airport. They hustled us off and moved us quickly to an outside area so they could board passengers heading back to Katmandu and take off- the entire time on the ground was less than 30 minutes!
Our head Sherpa Phinjo met us and we went into the village of Lukla and a home/restaurant where we were served hot Tang- yes Tang! Apparently this is what they served a lot of in this region along with coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. We had a chance to repack our duffel bags and then I loaded up my back pack and we set out along a fairly wide trail which went up and down – but mostly down so they we finished at 8700 feet. We walked through several villages and rural areas passing other trekkers and many Sherpas carry everything from propane tanks to logs on their backs.
About two hours in we stopped and ate some lunch ( it was only 10:30 but since I had been up so early it felt like lunch time). Very nice meal – fried eggs, potatoes, and cooked vegetables and then bread which I put peanut butter and jam on. I topped off my water also – cannot drink too much water – and returned to trekking the trail. The scenery is spectacular and we crossed a few suspension bridges – back and forth over a raging river. We also passed the notorious Yaks – up close and personal – which what look like very sharp horns.
For the most part everyone did fine this first day, we were not in extreme altitude – staying between 8500 and 9000 feet and reached our lodge about 1:30 in the afternoon – so not a particularly long day on the trail. I was grateful for this because I was tired from the early morning start. We had very good weather with sun and some clouds and about 1 hour after reaching the lodge it started to rain and as I type this it is still drizzling out.
Tomorrow will be a bit longer as we continue up the river valley and then climb and gain altitude until we reach Namche where on the third day we get a rest day to acclimatize.
We do not have internet here and I would have to go back up the trail about a mile or so to find a place with service so I am preparing this blog and the pictures with the hope of having internet somewhere in Namche,
More to follow...
NOTE: Michael will NOT have Internet connectivity again until October 1 so feel free to read and re-read this blog often to stay in the trekking mode {insert appropriate smiley face here A :-) B ;-) C:-)) or D ;-)) or E all of the above}
Ain’t No Mountain High Enough: Katmandu Can Do
Michael King’s trek to Base Camp Everest continued…
SEPTEMBER 14th: I arrived safely in Katmandu about 30 minutes late (Air China offered no reason for the delay). When I went to the airport this morning the driver let me out in front of the domestic terminal even though he knew I was headed to Katmandu- so I went into the terminal and waited in line and then the ticket counter woman told me “wrong terminal” and gave me halting directions for the international terminal which I found without difficulty.
Here I lined up with about 15 other travelers waiting for the Chinese official to decide when to allow us to enter. About 15 minutes later we entered and for the most part I experienced little difficulty getting through customs and to the waiting area for the plane
On the ride over I was looking out at the broken cloud cover down to the brown mountainous terrain below (we were flying at 32,000 feet) and then I happened to look straight out and there in the distance were several white peaks of the Himalayas – these were easy 25,000 feet or more and had several hundred to a couple of thousand of feet of mountain showing and they were magnificent – just about took my breath. Then a short while later the pilot announced we were going to pass by Mt. Everest – of course I was on the wrong side but I did see a bit of this incredible mountain. I hopefully will see “Mother Earth” as the Sherpa name “Chomolungma” means along with several other 7,000 to 8,000 meter mountains. I can’t wait!
Arriving in Nepal (somewhat old airport) I went and filled out my visa form and gain entry into Nepal and was excited to see my luggage made the trip with me, went out and found my A&K ground transfer and they took me to the Dwarika Hotel – very nice. Katmandu is a real sprawl of a city – four and a half million people live in a wide valley between two mountain ranges. The city appears to have a high air pollution (reminded me a bit of L.A.). Tomorrow I will tour a bit with A & K and with others of our group that have arrived early. The time here is 10 hour and 45 minutes ahead of our central time.
SEPTEMBER 15TH: I was up early and after breakfast met our guide whose name sounds like ‘my nose’ who drove myself and another of our party – Jan – to a Kali temple out of the city. Along the way he explained that in 1996 the Maoist started a war against the government which was then a monarchy in an attempt to overthrow the government and establish a People’s Republic (Maoist are communist by another name). In 2006 the U.N brokered a comprehensive peace agreement and the Republic of Nepal was born. The U.N. established an office in Katmandu to monitor the political situation to insure a peaceful transition of government. What happened because of the war is Katmandu grew from around 900,000 to it’s present day population of 4.5 million mainly because people in the rural areas came to Katmandu seeking refuge. This put a severe strain on the public services – water, sewerage, roads, power, schools, and medical facilities from which Katmandu is still trying to recover. The unemployment hovers around 50% in the country and many leave the country looking for work.
There are a total of 27 million people living in Nepal and the major religion is Hindu (80%) followed by Buddhism at 10%, and Christianity at 7%. The temple we went to honors the goddess Kali who helps mortals improve their character (or so we were told); it is a form of Hinduism called Shakti and is an old practice over 1000 years – it requires sacrifice and here at this temple people come and sacrifice sheep, water buffaloes, goats, chickens, and ducks. This supposedly helps the person rid themselves of ignorance, anger, confusion, greed, and lust. I was able to receive a blessing from a holy man for my journey (see pictures) which I found very special.
The afternoon was spent getting a trekking briefing (found out we all packed too much), going over our route to Everest, discussing altitude sickness and its effects, and various other details and questions.
We will have a group leader – a Sherpa named Phinjo; a cook named Tamding; and two additional Sherpas named Mingma and Ramesh Rai. The group consist of two single young men (35 or under) a married couple from Peoria (probably in their 50s) a single woman – Jan who is 61 and then a man named bill from Boston who competes with me for the oldest in the group. After getting the briefing we visited the oldest market in Nepal and boy was it chaotic – you had to watch out for people, motor bikes (most common method people use to get around) and cars all moving on very narrow street – sometimes with no sidewalks.
Tomorrow morning we tour another part of the city and then in the afternoon I will repack and rest – we leave the next day at 05:00- I can’t wait to get on the trail.
