Namche Bazaar to Lukla  --- September 28^th --- The day began early – we had about 12 to 14 miles to trek – mostly downhill and we were all eager to get going. The day was nice- temperatures in the mid to upper 50s I think, and we made good progress.  Our route took us from Namche to the river and then down the valley until we were to approach Lukla which required us to ascend about 800 feet.

As luck would have it we had to ascend a bit early – trekking the valley meant going back and forth over the river on suspension bridges. The next to last one was down – probably due to the huge rock slide which came down the mountain in the recent storms. We reached this point and stopped and looked around – not knowing where we go.  The answer was right in front of us- we go up! And I mean serious ascent!- We had to climb up the side of the mountain – sometimes hand over hand, hanging on to trees and pulling ourselves up using anything available- our poles, trees, sometimes large rocks etc.. until we were over one thousand feet above the river and able to move around the origin of the rock slide.  While we were climbing up – other trekkers and many Sherpas were coming down with huge loads on their backs (including, my friends tell me, a washing machine still in its box).  I can only tell you that I was glad we were not at 15,000 feet trying to do this- tough enough at 8500 feet.  Once we got above the rock slide the rest was fairly easy and straight forward and we arrived in Lukla in time for afternoon tea!

That night as we all headed back to our rooms after dinner I know I wasn’t the only one hoping for clear skies in the morning so the planes could land; and the morning came and we did have clear skies- at least sufficient that the planes arrived and we got on ours and headed back to Kathmandu.  Once there we all went to work on changing our flights so we could leave as early as possible.  I made it out on Friday evening (actually early Saturday morning around 1:15 AM0 through Hong Kong and then back to the USA.  I was able to have Sunday as a rest day (and also to familiarize myself with my old life) before heading back to work on Monday morning.  Today is Wednesday – my original arrival home day – and I am still suffering some of the effects from jet lag.

This was quite a trip – everything I expected and more- with an earthquake (my 1st experience), rain almost every day, snow storm, a plane crashed near Mt. Everest while we were nearby – didn’t see it though, washed out trails, rockslides, avalanches, and, by the way, great traveling companions!

I am really glad I got to do this and I am equally glad I am home at last!

Following this is my interpretation of GIFTS which I received.

GIFTS

Gift with Purchase!

Almost every time I travel I experience a gift which I had not planned on getting- I never know what this might be and usually do not even realize I have received this gift until I am on my way back home.

My Gift with Purchase is coming to know the people referred to as SHERPAS.  These people migrated from Tibet over 500 years ago and settled in the region of the Himalayas. I got to know a bit about these incredible people on this trek.  First off they appear to be very content with their lot in life- this is quite unusual to begin with- I never heard any complaining or wishing that something was different from anyone of them.  I also never witness any of them from teenager to very old sitting or standing around doing nothing as I see so many in the places that I visit. Instead they are always working- tending to their truck farms, helping build a new home or store, and carrying large loads on their backs over hundreds of miles of trails- up and down the mountains.  You see there aren’t any motorized vehicles – nothing- not  a car, truck or farm equipment- no roads of highways- just the trails they walk along with their yaks.  These people are generally smaller than I am – though not by much and probably average 140 pounds –yet I often seeing them carrying over 150 pounds on their backs. They average about $300 a year income which is hard to imagine – living by what they grow on the side of the hills and mountains.  The ones who own yaks are the “higher income” ones – and yet they do not have televisions, or electrical heat, and most do not have an indoor toilet.  Their homes are quite simple and center on one room where there is a stove for heat and cooking- the remainder of the home is without any heat at all.  They are all Buddhist which in itself is unusual in Nepal which is over 80% Hindu. They all have a smile and a greeting for you as you pass on the trail- quite a gift – these Sherpas – my fellow humans!

PARTING GIFTS

One cannot trek this region for two weeks without a few parting gifts.  Gifts like abrasions from falling on the slippery stones, or banged up toes from hitting the front of your boots for hours on end while you are going downhill. And then there are the incredibly sore muscles – in your legs and even your feet ache from walking on such uneven ground for so long! 

Yes I have these and a couple of others- indigestion from the daily diet and a nose bleed form the dry air- and these are all to be expected- proof that I did walk every mile carrying my backpack and I have the parting gifts to prove it!

So this is it for now- hopefully you enjoyed my blog and especially the pictures which my Love is now editing and will post on line for anyone who is interested.

So until we meet again I will paraphrase form the old Irish saying- “May the wind always be at your back and may the sun shine on your face!”

Safe Travels!

Michael

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Another 8 AM star to what became a long day.  We left Phakding and headed north along the banks of the Dudh Kosi (Milk River), crossing back and forth on suspension bridges five times.  We pass Ghat Village and entered the Sagramatha National Park and shortly thereafter stopped for lunch beside the river.  There was a steady stream of Sherpas carrying almost anything you can imagine including doors, beams, and lumber for a house construction.  After lunch we crossed the river for the last time and began a long climb (gaining a total of 2700 feet of altitude by the time we reached our destination.

The climb itself began with switchbacks and after reaching the ridge line we traverse this for another 2.5 miles and came to Namche.  We hiked through Namche to Namche Bazaar and a wonderful hotel called Panorama Lodge – with hot showers, and electric blankets to keep us warm, and another hot meal from our cook!

A few words about our Sherpa team: our head Sherpa – called a Shirdar – summited Everest 7 times; our cook and cooked for 19 climbing teams at Everest Base Camp – so we are in very experienced hands!

There was on unexpected occurrence.  Around 6:45 pm the hotel shook a bit, paused and then started really shaking.  We all look at each other and then made a bolt for the door along with a couple of other groups and all the staff.  I got outside and stood in a light drizzle for about 10 minutes waiting for my heart to stop racing – I never experienced an earthquake.  Turns out the quake measured 6.9 and was centered in Northern India.  It apparently caused mudslides in India and killed several people.

We went back inside and finished dinner and around 30 minutes later 30 children arrived and came into the hotel from the local boarding school, very frighten from the quake and the hotel put mattresses down on the floor and the kids spent the night here with us at Panorama Lodge.

The next day – Monday – we rested in Namche Bazaar enjoying the village, surrounding mountains even though clouds were low and constantly moving through we were able to get quick glimpses of Lhotse and Lhotse Star – two mountains at 8500 and 8350 meters high respectively which are east of Everest. In fact Lhotse shares a saddle with Everest.

We also visited a Sherpa memorial and a Buddhist monastery.  In the afternoon I rested a bit and then caught up on emails and of course what you are now reading. 

More soon!