Michael decided to attend Pure Life Experience, an assemblage of purveyors and buyers of unique, enriching and often life-changing experiences around the globe. While we are familiar with some options, we are always on the lookout for the what's new and different or a fresher experience than was previously available. PURE, in its 3rd year of operation, is held in Marrakech in November and I wasn't about to pass on this destination! So, I planned a week of R&R while Michael spent his days forming new business relationships and cementing the existing ones.

Joel Zack, CEO of Heritage Tours Private Travel, invited us to experience the newly opened Four Seasons Marrakech, using it as a base for exploring the area-the Medina, the new city, many properties and the beauty of the High Atlas Mountains. Joel fell in love with Morocco when he was part of a group of  architects sent to Morocco to restore some synagogues. What we learned is that Joel KNOWS Morocco, he gets it, he understands the nuances and quirks and relishes in them.

My take:

I like Morocco and, now having experienced this uneven culture, I enjoy it---but it took awhile. I had to suspend my stand on women's rights (I am not so ambitious to try to change an Arab/Berber culture). I always wore conservative clothes (not a problem because I'm not into the latest trendy styles---come on, I'm 63 not 23!) and yet I found some men eying me, perhaps wondering what a younger version of me would look like (surely they can do better than lusting after a woman soon to receive Medicare!).

The Four Seasons Marrakech is an attractive structure, but it is not ready for "prime time " yet. Service, on the best day, is uneven. I know, I know, you're going to remind me that I am complaining about a phenomenon of Morocco. I disagree! This property is a Four Seasons and that brand comes with certain givens, one being exceptional service. Even if the employees are not used to the service standards that are de rigeour elsewhere, the middle management and upper management should be (no housekeeping one day, turn down service offered at 10:30 PM, really?). The other recommendation is to add some wonderful Berber carpets to the long marble hallways to soften the echo effect of footsteps and conversations.

Those comments from the viewpoint of a travel advisor who wants to ensure her clients enjoy every detail of their journey aside, we next spent 3 nights at Naoura Barriere, a definte DON'T(so much a "don't" that my mind refuses to remember the name, resorting to looking at stationery to recall the proper name and spelling!). This property was assigned to us during the conference, so we had no choice of accommodations. We were told it is a contemporary Moroccan hotel, an option for groups. I haven't seen or felt a whole lot of Moroccan, contemporary or otherwise, and feel more like I'm in a Marriott that still is decorated in the 1980's.

After  visiting several hotels, villas, and riads, I recommend you avoid the more recognizable names. La Mamounia, historic and elegant, with magnificent grounds might appeal to some, but I felt it was stuffy. Royal Mansour, owned by the royal family, is over-the-top and not subtle, it's riads are a nightmare of stairs.

  My favorites for in-city stays are Villa des Orangers, minutes from the Medina, and Riad Joya, a new hidden gem within the Medina. At 21 rooms and 7 rooms respectively, book early! Both are totally charming and each is an oasis of calm in an otherwise bustling city.

You can't come to Marrakech without at least a day trip to the High Atlas Mountains. The beauty of the area, dotted with Berber villages, is unforgettable. We visited Villa Malika, a nice option for a couple of nights (request the junior suite on the top floor with walls of windows). Then we visited Kasbah Tomadot, one of Richard Branson's tony resorts, and a MUST STAY in my book. Okay, you're correct, I eschewed recognizable properties en ville (don't you love it when I speak French?); but come on, folks, this is Richard Branson! Have you ever known something branded with the Virgin name not to be stellar? Opt for one of the tented suites and be prepared for some serious pampering!

Now that I have my picks firmly in place for our stay during PURE next year, I'm off to London for a couple of nights of serious British luxe, staying at The Goring, now famous for Kate Middleton's locale for her last night as a single woman, but more famous for its lovable and sometimes outrageous Managing Director and friend, David Morgan Hewitt. Good-bye sweet mint tea of Morocco, hello proper English breakfast tea.